Traditionally, most hats are made with a classic pinch (the two symmetrical oval “dents” at the front of the crown) and a crease along the length at the top. Customarily, a good hatmaker will create a hat that is in balance with all of its elements, so the crown height will complement the brim width (see Tip 3). One thing that is often overlooked is the shape and height of the crown of a hat. Washington, Library Of Congress (Photo by DeAgostini/Getty Images) De Agostini via Getty Images UNITED STATES - CIRCA 2002: Oscar Wilde (1854-1900) Irish writer, in New York in January 1882. They can be as much of a statement as they are fit for purpose, and with so much choice it is easy to find something subtly stylish, perfectly practical or even fabulously flamboyant! Some of the most iconic fashion photography in the world is of people in hats, looking incredible. Most of all, these are only guidelines and the important thing is that you enjoy wearing it if you love the hat, then that’s the one for you. It certainly helps to consider when the hat or cap would most be worn, and with what attire, and if you can, wear a similar outfit when trying it on. The same is true for caps, too a narrower flat cap or fuller Bakerboy cap could be chosen by face-shape, but also when worn with a shirt, or an overcoat and scarf, the same cap will look differently proportioned. It is, perhaps, a little too simplistic to say that a shorter, slighter person would suit a narrower brim trilby and a taller, built-for-rugby gentleman would look fine in a wide-brimmed fedora – but that would certainly be a good start when considering which hat to buy. Height, breadth of shoulders, face shape and even hairstyle can influence the choice of hat in proportion to those characteristics. Tip 3: Proportion, purpose and preferenceĪ general rule of hatting is to identify a hat or cap that is in proportion to the wearer, as you would a pair of glasses based on the shape of one’s face. The skill is in the shaping by Lock & Co Hatters London Lock & Co You can see a video of our conforming process here. still use a Conformateur – a precise head-shape measuring instrument made in Paris in the 1850s, and this process should never be overlooked when buying one of these iconic hats. This is because there is little or no “give” in these hats, so they are individually hand-shaped, bespoke for each client. This is especially true of high quality, blocked hats with a leather sweatband such as a fine fedora, but hard hats such as the Bowler (or Coke, pronounced “Cook”, as it is known at Lock & Co.) or for Top Hats it is essential that the head-shape itself is recorded. Somebody with a rounder head shape may find a standard, out-of-the-box hat tighter at the sides, and somebody with a longer-oval may find it too snug at the front and back. However, people’s head-shapes vary enormously too. Size does matter by Lock & Co Hatters London Lock & Coįor soft hats and caps, once the sizing is right, the hat should feel well-fitted and comfortable, and generally they are sewn or blocked into an oval shape.
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